Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Coastal Hiking #1

One of the best features of the outdoors of the Halifax Regional Municipality is its close proximity to excellent walking routes on the Atlantic Ocean's coastline. The possibilities are many, and there are options available for people of any fitness level. Here are just a few.

The most well-known to residents, with the possible exception of the harbour boardwalk in the downtown, must be Point Pleasant Park. Situated at the tip of the peninsula, this popular park faces the mouth of Halifax Harbour, and walkers on its trails often are treated to views of commercial traffic on its way to one of the city's container ports, or of Canadian navy ships heading to or from its principal port. Of course, you might also be lucky enough to see the Bluenose.

Few people realize that there are paths surrounding the York Redoubt National Historic Site. This fortress, sited on a ridge, faces McNabs Island at the narrowest point of Halifax Harbour, opposite the lighthouse at Hangman's Beach. The view from the ramparts is always impressive, both looking back towards the urban centre or outward into the Atlantic Ocean. However, if you exit through the Sally Port, you can follow the former road down the hillside to the water's edge near the North Shore Battery. Side trails provide access onto the rocky shoreline.

One of my favourite hikes, for almost 30 years now, is Pennant Point. Long before I thought of myself as a "hiker", I would head to this beautiful stretch of coastline, which offers both outstanding white sand beaches and rugged granite headlands, and spend an entire day relaxing to the every present sound of waves breaking against the rocks. A formal trail has been developed that connects all the beaches. After that, if you choose to continue, you must scramble over a jumble of rocks interspersed with areas of boggy vegetation. (But it's worth it!)

One of the "must see" locations near Halifax for any visitor is Peggys Cove. Its iconic lighthouse, perched on the massive, smooth rocks that protect the tiny fishing harbour, must be one of the most photographed structures in Canada. Those wishing to experience the coastal barrens around Peggys Cove, but without sharing the rocks with thousands of tourists, should consider a trip to nearby Polly Cove. Starting by following the old road from the highway to the ruins of a former fish plant, this route traces the harsh coastline along exposed rock and virtually treeless hillsides between the communities of Peggys Cove and West Dover. It is a gorgeous area, and you just might have it all to yourself.

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